Wednesday, September 15, 2010

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The Intersection of Art & Fashion – Part II


Fashion has been steadily raising its profile to become a form of art as important as any other. From fashion shows to events, editorial and advertising campaigns. The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York curates two shows a year each devoted, for example, to fashion and costuming (The Goddess), an important fashion icon (Jackie Kennedy) or a group of people (The Model as a Muse). This just underscores how inseparable art and fashion have become. This year, fashion cements itself in the popular culture/art forum during Fashion Week, which has just moved from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center. One day you're watching Carmen, the opera, and the next day you are attending the largest public fashion show in New York history, which occurred this very season.

The streets of SoHo on Fashion's Night Out: packed!
(Image courtesy of Kirna Zabete)

Last Friday, the stores (and in many cases, the streets) of New York and many other cities in the world including Paris, Lisbon, Berlin, Istanbul, London and New Delhi, hosted Fashion's Night Out, the brainchild of Anna Wintour created to push the fashion industry and stimulate shopping in the aftermath of an economic crisis. This year, the second annual celebration of Fashion's Night Out has taken more spectacular proportions, having not only the aforementioned public show but also a cool occasion where celebrities, models, designers and the public mingle, hang out and buy clothes until late.

Sarah Easly, Jason Wu and Beth Buccini
(Image courtesy of Kirna Zabete)

I decided to spend FNO in SoHo -which by the way, turned itself into a big and packed street party during a beautiful and slightly cold night-, and hit a couple of different stores before settling into the fabulous concept store, Kirna Zabete http://www.kirnazabete.com/, owned by my friend Beth Buccini and her partner, Sarah Easly. They opened this store 11 years ago to fill a void in the marketplace. The idea was to present very special selections and very edited pieces from coveted high-end designers such as Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Balmain and Balenciaga and offer them along with more fun, edgier and affordable pieces from younger designers such as Proenza Schouler, whose cute creators Lazaro and Jack were also at Kirna Zabete that night and en route to another event at Gagosian (hello, fashion and art!) or Thakoon and Peter Som both of whom were also hanging out with us that night. Beth and Sarah are pioneers who opened the store when everything that was around was Prada and Gucci but not many other riskier, alternative options for the more daring clotheshorse. Today, Kirna Zabete is like a small Colette, they also carry books, fabulous jewelry, shoes, bags, the occasional home accessory and other fun stuff.

DJ Wolf spinning tunes.
(Image courtesy of Kirna Zabete)

Beth and I talked about the evolution of fashion as art and she's really an authority on all these topics. Having been a fashion editor at Mirabella (beautiful but long gone magazine) and New York Magazine before opening the store, she has witnessed fashion shows all over the world, met hundreds of designers and in some cases, she has also put them in the map for the first time... I asked Beth why are we seeing more of these mega-fashion shows that not only push the envelope but also resemble art installations or theatre performances to which she answered that for many years, the fashion shows in Europe have been cutting-edge, artsy and innovative and it was only a matter of time and a natural evolution that the shows in New York would catch up, spreading the magic throughout... The best local representation of such fantasy and theatricality, according to Beth, is that done by the Mulleavy sisters, the creators of Rodarte, and I happen to agree.

See what I mean when I say "very edited"? Absolutely fabulous selections in every corner of the store.

Beth’s favorite designers (this was a tough one) are Lanvin because of the playfulness and all the mixing and matching that Alber Elbaz has brought to the house, Celine, because Phoebe Philo has taken the label to a younger and more interesting level, and Alaia, because of his unique talent and his refusal to following trends, instead creating them. The night was spent in the fitting room, dancing to the tunes of DJ Wolf and hanging out with designers and dear friends including fitness queen, Tracy Anderson. When I called it a night and on my way out, I bumped into Jason Wu whose latest collection, according to him, was inspired by one of my favorite artists, and one whose works I have placed many times in the house of my clients, the extraordinary Carioca, Beatriz Milhazes. No doubt, fashion IS art.


Friday, September 10, 2010

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The Intersection of Art & Fashion – Part I

September is a wonderful month in New York City. It marks the beginning of the fall and with it the arrival of new gallery shows and exciting museum exhibits as well and Fashion Week (now for the first time in Lincoln Center). Of course, there will be lots of parties and events, including the fun and brilliant Fashion’s Night Out which is actually tonight! http://www.fashionsnightout.com/ (more about that in next week’s entry).

Linda and I having coffee at 9:00am in a local cafe. And yes, I posed sans makeup next to a supermodel!

I’ve always thought that fashion IS art and this is about their intersection and how much one informs the other. I recently sat down for coffee with Linda Vojtova, who is not only super gorgeous but also very smart, grounded, poised and good natured. Linda is a supermodel born and raised in the Czech Republic who has been modeling since 2000. Linda has been able to maintain a high-profile career for more than 10 years and still gets fabulous gigs, it really speaks volumes of the caliber of who she is. She has done over 14 seasons of Fashion Week in New York, Paris and Milan and there she has rocked the runways of Armani Privé, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs, Hermès, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Rosa Cha, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Donna Karan, Chanel, Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera just to name a few. She has also been the face of Fekkai, Armani Collezioni, Bergdorf Goodman, Bill Blass, Bloomingdale's, Diesel, Escada, Giorgio Armani, La Perla, Mango, Max Mara and Neiman Marcus and as if it were not enough she has graced the covers of international editions of Vogue, Elle, Glamour and Amica and many, many more. In fashion circles, she’s known as “Baby Gisele”.

Linda in Jean Paul Gaultier's show - Fall 2008


In Dior Couture's show - Spring 2008


This picture was also taken at a Dior Couture runway but it was the Spring 2009 show


Linda on the cover of Vogue Australia.  Gorgeous.

Linda and I discussed photographers, how they create magic with their lenses and how an editorial shooting or a campaign sometimes does become art. It’s not uncommon that many of the photographs taken by big names such as Steven Meisel and Patrick Demachelier (Linda has worked with both), Mario Testino and the sorely missed Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Herb Ritts become, at some point art hanging on the walls of many collectors and in museums. The brilliant Peter Lindbergh is Linda’s favorite photographer, and with whom she has a close relationship. Being old-school, Lindbergh takes the time to understand his subject, he really believes in the “muse” and that image-making is indeed art.


Linda as the face of Fekkai, captured by Peter Lindbergh


Elle Mexico

Linda recently shot an editorial for the iconic fashion magazine Dazed & Confused in the UK. Artist Simon English painted on Linda’s face and body, another extraordinary intersection of the beauty produced when art and fashion collide... And we also covered the subject of fashion designers—they create a lot of art and magic. Their clothing, is, of course, amazing, but fashion shows have evolved over the years into extraordinary installations where art, music and theatre converge with celebrities and other creative notables. Linda’s favorite shows are Christian Dior, because honestly, who better than Galliano to show the world what fashion as art really means, and who truly pushes the envelope as he does. Linda also loved working with Jean Paul Gaultier, who she considers an artistic genius, and Marc Jacobs whose shows are always the best. Balmain, McQueen and Lanvin, are, however, the collections she considers to be the most avant-garde and edgy.


One of the images for Dazed & Confused's editorial where Linda's hair, face and body were painted by Simon English

Linda is an avid collector, and among other great pieces, she has a few Andy Warhols, her favorite artist. And she loves how Andy married –in his very own way- the worlds of fashion and art. She also loved the recent show of Mr. Brainwash in the meatpacking district which she attended with her boyfriend - a renaissance man who paints, collects, has a rock band, loves fashion and has pretty much worshipped Linda for the past six years. And I totally get why.